Firenze through a different lens

Here are some beautiful shots Andrew took with his 50mm lens while in Florence. I really need to get an SLR sometime soon…

Catching Up: Part I

Ciao tutti!

My apologies for the delay in these posts. There’s been a whirlwind of commotion recently, starting with Andrew’s visit and ending with final papers, paintings, sketches, and exams. Andrew’s visit was absolutely wonderful and took both of us to some new and beautiful places–Bologna, Montalcino, Pienza, Sant’Anna in Comprena, and the Amalfi Coast. There are so many stories to be told from our time together, but since I’m drowning in paintings (I know, poor me) until next Monday when we have our art show, I will try my best to summarize in photo captions!

My first time up to Piazzale Michelangelo with Andrew! With a fresh baguette, a bit of taleggio (formaggio), strawberries, and lemon soda, Andrew and I passed the afternoon at Piazzale watching the sunset and catching up. After Piazzale, we had a lovely dinner at Cucina Casalinga–pollo e patate arrosti!


Sunset over the arno.


Stopped along the arno on the walk home to take some night photos of the most beautiful city in the world.

Thursday morning we rented a car (Andrew drove) and headed south! Our first stop was Montalcino, a hilltop town about an hour from Florence. Beautiful views, better food.


The homemade pasta with truffles (10 euro/14 dollars) in Montalcino was amazing, but Andrew’s chicken with Brunello (the wine of the region) sauce was one of the best meals I’ve had in Italy.

Our next stop was Sant’anna in Camprena, an agriturismo that was formerly a 15th century Benedictine monastery. 6 km from Pienza, Sant’anna in Camprena offers the most stunning views of Italy I’ve seen–nothing but rolling green hills and vineyards. We got in at around 4 to find that we made up 1/3 of the guests for the night–6 people in a place with 80 beds. We felt like royalty sitting in the garden watching the sunset, drinking wine made onsite, all completely alone. It was hands-down the best part of Andrew’s stay, and one of the best days I’ve had in Italy.


Sant’anna in Camprena. If this looks vaguely familiar to you, then you’ve probably seen The English Patient. Many of the scenes in the movie were filmed at Sant’anna in Camprena and, even cooler, we stayed in one of the main rooms that was featured in the film.

It really doesn’t get much better than this.

If only we could’ve spent all 11 days at Sant’anna…

Friday morning we made a quick stop in Pienza, where we had a wonderful dinner the night before, to explore a bit more of the tiny city. Pienza is famous for pecorino cheese (my favorite), so most of our exploring was food-related, but both of us fell in love with the city as a whole. Pienza definitely has a lot of character for such a little city and ah, the views!

After a 5 hour drive, we finally made it to Positano. As you can see, it was stunning. The weather was perfect and we had a lot of fun walking around on Saturday. Positano is famous for its enormous and delicious lemons, so we particularly enjoyed our fresh lemon granita (slushy). Unfortunately, we weren’t able to see too much of Postiano because by the time we arrived I was definitely at my sickest, but it was nice relaxing in such a beautiful place. Highlight: sharing a beach chair with Andrew, playing cribbage as the sun set over the cliffs.

Andrew’s visit ended with the last of three meals with my Italian family. (My host mom initially invited him to dinner for one night only, but after meeting him she kept inviting him back.) It made me so happy to enjoy a few meals with Andrew and my host family, and they really appreciated Andrew speaking to them in the Italian that he could remember (the rest of the time they spoke to him in English). As much as I enjoyed some time away, it always feels nice to return to my home here. The icing on the cake was to have Andrew “in casa”, too!

Bare with me, Part II of this post—a few of Andrew’s beautiful shots of Florence and pictures from our Bing Trip to Cinque Terre–will come soon. In the meantime, I’m onto my third painting (of 4) and am heading to Franco’s with his host-granddaughter, Gina, on Thursday to work on my last painting. I’m so excited to paint with someone who can actually clarify what I’m supposed to be doing and who also happens to be one of the coolest Italians I know.

I have a little over 2 weeks left here. How did that happen? I have a ton left to do for school, but I’m trying to remember to make the most of these last couple weeks–there’s still so much that I want to do and see. I really don’t want to leave this city. If there were a way for me to stay for another quarter, maybe even two more, I would do it in an instant.

The way things are looking now, if i want to see more of Florence AND pass my classes before I go, I will be getting very little sleep for the next two weeks. Oh well, I know it will be well worth it.

Baci,
Tessa

Everyday People Spring Show! May 7 @ 7pm

Anyone in the Bay Area should absolutely hit up EP’s Spring Show, Throwback in Black, this Saturday in Toyon at 7:30 pm. I am terribly sad I won’t be there, but I know they will be amazing and make all of us members abroad very very proud. Good luck, guys, and hang in there this week! Alex and I miss you all so much and will be rooting for you at 4AM on Sunday morning.

to rome and back: a photo summary

Ciao tutti! I’m sorry it’s been so long since I’ve written. Everything got so busy after our long weekend in Rome–a paper in Italian, an application for a job in the admissions office that I really hope to get for next year, etc.–and now I’ve let almost two weeks pass without writing! Since I’m pretty intimidated by a blog post that covers everything from the past two weeks (a lot!), I’m going to try to hit all the good stuff in photos!

giovedì 21 aprile: I wake up feeling awful. Even oceans away, I was somehow able to catch the cold both my Dad and Nery had come down with back in Claremont. Tomorrow (friday) we leave for Rome. Perfect.

venerdì 22 aprile: After a 5-hour train ride that was almost unbearable, a metro AND bus ride, we arrive at Plus Camping Roma, a hostel/campground that might as well have been in another country it felt so far away. Though it wasn’t quite the environment we were looking for, in the center of Rome with all the hustle and bustle of a huge city, I must admit it was still pretty cute. The campsite was half tents and half bungalows, with pool, bar, club, grocery store, tutto! I stayed in a bungalow, but to save money (only 6 euro a day–not worth it in my opinion) many people in our group of about 20 stayed in tents with only a bed and one blanket. They were freezing at night, freezing when they showered in the communal showers without hot water, and constantly laughing at their decision to tent it. Thought the bungalow was sufficiently warm and had hot water, it was no villa. It felt a lot like a room in a cruise ship (with one of the beds hanging from the ceiling), and any time one of us turned over in our beds, the entire bungalow shook. Our bungalow also shook every time the people in the bungalow attached to us shared a not-so-private moment. When that happened, I sat outside and flipped through my Italy guide book. Since we were so far out from the center of Rome, we spent a lot of time at the campground, and I actually really enjoyed it. It reminded me a lot of Sierra Camp.
The Ritz.

Friday night we headed to the Colosseum, where there was an event called the Stations of the Cross. The Pope blessed the event, after which he read from the Bible the events of Good Friday. The Italians we’re going nuts! The celebrity of the Pope is something I struggled to understand the entire time I was in Rome, but it was pretty amazing to see all the Italians out and about and the Colosseum illuminated in red light.

sabato 23 aprile: Saturday was our only day to soak in the main sights of Rome. We left early Friday morning and weren’t heading home until Monday afternoon, but we had no energy to sight see on Friday and all of the museums were closed on Easter Sunday (Pasqua) and Monday, an official Italian holiday called la Pasquetta. So Saturday, despite feeling absolutely miserable, I was up at 7, boots on, ready to explore as much of Rome as I could handle. First, we saw St. Peter’s Basilica. As much as I love Florence and wouldn’t want to have this time anywhere else, nothing in Florence can really compare to the grandeur of the Vatican. After waiting in a line that wrapped completely around Vatican square, we finally made it into the church and spent at least an hour there, struggling to comprehend the intricacy and perfection of everything there.

After leaving St. Peter’s Basilica, we realized we only had one hour until the ticket office for the Vatican Museum closed, and we were certain after looking at the line that there was no way we could make it in time if we waited in line. So we fell victim to the tour group. Expensive as they are (35 euro vs. the regular entrance fee of 8 euro) and as much as I LOATHE the tour groups in Florence, I kind of think a tour is the way to go for the Vatican Museum. We were able to skip the line completely and also get a 2 hour tour with a woman who seemed to know her stuff pretty well. There was no chance I was going to come to Rome and NOT see the Vatican, especially after taking my Renaissance Art class with Verdon, so it seemed like the best choice for us. I’ve never gone into a museum before feeling like a semi-expert, so walking through the Vatican museum already familiar with most of the information the tour guide was giving us was a pretty incredible feeling. I never understood the scope of many of these pieces, but that weekend I was able to stand in front of a piece of work and finally feel knowledgeable about its impact on Renaissance art. Thank you, Prof Verdon.
Alex pointed at this one and said, “You like her, huh?” I nodded and asked how he knew. He said, “Because I know you want her dress.” My favorite character in the Sistine Chapel. Pretty unreal. Made two weeks of sitting in a dark room while Verdon flips through three hours of slides totally worth it.

domenica 24 aprile: It’s Easter Sunday and Rome is packed. Alex was able to get tickets to the Pope’s Easter mass in St. Peter’s Square, which allowed us entry to stand somewhere in the square, and it was something else. We arrived at 9 for the 10:15 service and there was already a 45-minute line just to get in the square. Once we got in, we made it to the right side of the square. Though we were pretty far from the Pope and the altar, I felt like we were really getting the whole experience. When the Pope arrived in a white Mercedes, blessing the crowd as he passed them, it was complete insanity. I had really never seen anything like it before. (Well, maybe something comparable occurred when I sat in St. Peter’s Square on New Year’s Eve in 1999, but I can’t remember anything about that except feeling completely frozen.) Once the mass started, the crowd became very calm and respectful, and the worst of my sickness settled over me. Though I felt pretty awful, it was amazing to watch the mass and even more amazing to watch the Italians stand in the hot sun for almost two hours with the most intense reverence. You can’t help but be constantly amazed by the profound role of Catholicism in the lives of nearly everyone in this country.

The mass was followed by a delicious bowl of gnocchi, a three hour nap in my air conditioned bungalow, and dinner at the famous pizzeria, Dar Poeta, in the Trastevere area, my favorite zone in Rome. After a full night of sleep, we headed back to sweet, sweet Florence. I know I’m studying in the right European city, because I was homesick after the first full day in Rome. It was a pretty great trip, other than feeling pretty miserable the whole time, but I was very glad to be back in Florence.

venerdì 29 aprile: (If you’re reading Stacey, I was thinking of you all night!) By Friday I was feeling 100% and ready for a wine tasting with Pino, the beloved owner of Salumeria Verde. In addition to owning Salumeria Verde, home to the best, cheap sandwich you can find in Florence, Pino owns a wine shop called Pozzo Divino, where he holds wine tastings two or three times a week. He loves Stanford kids, great food and wine from Toscana, and putting on a show for anyone who will watch, so we knew we were in for a great night. Along with an American couple and three kids from another study abroad program in Florence (who had been here for 9 months but didn’t speak a lick of Italian), we descended into the tasting room, formerly a 15th century prison rumored to have held Machiavelli. We started by sampling olive oil and a 10-year-old balsamic, which would’ve left me completely content, but then came the wine. Paired with different types of tuscan cheeses, salumi, and prosciutto, we tasted one white and two red wines–a chianti classico and a super tuscan. Pino taught us the three steps of evaluating wine–sight, smell, taste–and how to pair wine with cheeses and meats. Pino was wonderful and very generous, and it ended up being one of my very favorite nights in Florence so far. The cherry on top: my first trip to the one and only Medici for some amazing cinnamon and hazelnut gelato. Just wine tasting in a dungeon. Stanford loves Pino.
The only place I’ve been able to find avocados: Medici Gelateria.

domenica 1 maggio: Una giornata lungha. After La Notte Bianca (The White Night), a night in Florence when most places stay open all night and everyone in the city is out and about until the wee hours of the morning, the fam and I woke up at 8AM for the big day: my host sister’s premiere as an oboist at an orchestral concert in Vinci (as in the birthplace of Leonardo da Vinci). After some car troubles, we made it to Vinci around 1, grabbed a panino, and then headed to the da Vinci Museum. Martina, my host sister, was somewhere with her band warming up. At the museum, there were models of almost every one of da Vinci’s inventions, from a bike to a diving suit. I had always thought of him as a brilliant artist, but never so much as an engineer. Though we sped through the museum to make it to Martina’s concert on time, it was truly amazing to see examples of Leo’s genius. It also happened to be the most beautiful day we could ask for. As expected, Martina and her band were a hit! Her sheet music flew away during the second song, but she handled it like a champ and referred to the music on the stand next to her without giving any hint of the mini-crisis. We stayed in Vinci–listening to the other bands, socializing with parents, tanning, eating–until about 730, when we finally headed home. Admittedly, it was a pretty long day to spend in such a small town, but I always enjoy spending time with my family and seeing a new place in Italy. Overall, a beautiful day. Giulia and me taking a break while the parents figured out the car situation. At the Leonardo da Vinci Museum. Martina making us proud.

And now to this week: it’s hard to think about anything else but Andrew’s arrival on Friday. That said, I have so much to look forward to. Tomorrow we are headed to a Jovanotti concert, Thursday I head to Venice for the day, and Friday I train to Bologna to meet Andrew at the airport. We are going to try to squeeze in as much as we can in his 10-day trip, but we’re also going to be sure to take enough time to relax and catch up. I’m sure Andrew’s body could use some rest. Which reminds me, he finishes his 475-mile journey in just two days! He will finish with only one of the friends he started with, but from what he’s told me, they are all very happy they did the pilgrimage despite injuries galore. As expected, Andrew will leave Spain with nothing more than a few blisters. Lucky guy.

Next Monday, Andrew will meet the family and experience Mom’s amazing cooking, and Thursday we will rent a car and drive through Napoli to Positano in the Amalfi Coast. We found a great pensione there with incredible views, so we can’t wait to get some sun and explore a part of Italy that neither of us have been to.

Positano, where Andrew and I head next week. I can’t imagine it gets much better than this.

My next post will probably be delayed, but I will try to at least get some pictures up within the next week!
Happy Mother’s Day (early) to all of the amazing women in my life who’ve made me feel ridiculously loved. I’m so lucky to have you in my life.

florence, my heart

I’m stancha morta (dead tired) so forgive me for being brief, but I definitely wanted to get a post in before heading to Rome for Easter weekend. (I figure I’ll have a nice big post to write after returning from that trip).

Last weekend was lovely and lazy. We really wanted to take it easy with Rome coming up, so we decided to spend the day roaming around Florence. I somehow convinced my friends Alex and Gina to pay 8 euro to see an exhibit with literally one piece: Damien Hirst’s diamond-encrusted skull, For the Love of God. Cast in platinum and encrusted in 8,601 diamonds, Hirst’s skull is one of the most remarkable works of art I’ve ever seen, and the dramatic presentation only exaggerates the work’s brilliance. Showcased in the 13th century Palazzo Vecchio, Florence’s town hall and one of the many Medici family hang outs back in the day, Hirst’s modern work (2007) seems rather out of place. But the peculiarity of the exhibit among Renaissance art and intricately carved, golden ceilings only adds to the experience. Since only 12 people are allowed to view the skull at a time, we had to spend the first couple minutes in a room that was somehow reminiscent of the waiting room at Disneyland’s Haunted Mansion. Once the exhibit cleared out, we were lead into a dark room with nothing but the diamond skull protected by a thick glass case. Two small overhead lights, the only light in the room, made the diamonds sparkle almost violently, and though it’s validity as a work of art has been questioned, Hirst’s skull is without question breathtaking. The intricacy, brilliance, and morbidity of the skull leaves you speechless, and when you do find words, the room is so small and quiet that you feel like you should wait until after to talk about how crazy the skull is. I obsess over almost anything that sparkles, so the skull was a dream come true for me. But beyond that, the precision of the skull–there are diamonds in almost crevice visible– is a sight to behold, and it was also pretty weird/amazing/gross to stand in front of a work that was likely sold for 50 million pounds 4 years ago. (It cost Hirst 14 million pounds to make it.)

After 15 minutes of staring at the skull–and 10 minutes of letting our eyes adjust to normal light–we were able to explore Palazzo Vecchio and see work by Vasari, Michelangelo, and Leonardo. Definitely a beautiful change of pace.
Just one of the amazing sights in Palazzo Vecchio.

After Palazzo Vecchio, Alex suggested we do a bit of shoe shopping and reminded me of the one purchase I’ve been hoping to make since winter last year: a pair of leather boots. After wandering around the Ponte Vecchio, I finally got the courage to walk into a little shoe store I’ve walked by 15 times by now. Owned by an Italian man who actually looks like Gepetto (thanks for asking, Dad), Rive Gauche has beautiful, handmade leather shoes at rather reasonable prices. After about 10 minutes of staring at a gorgeous pair of brown leather riding boots, I finally asked to try on a pair and amazingly, they had a 42 (10.5)–impossible to find anywhere, let alone Europe. They fit perfectly and were surprisingly comfortable. I sat with them on for about 20 minutes. For as long as I had been searching for a pair of boots (I’ve never owned a pair!) and as much as I loved these, it was still an investment, one I hadn’t been prepared to make when I woke up on Saturday. Finally, after a little reassurance from Gina and Alex, I went for it. Since then, I’ve spent more time than I’d like to admit just staring at them. Definitely money well spent. And to calm whatever anxiety I had left from the purchase on Monday morning, Fosca, one of the amazing women who works at the Stanford center, told me she bought her first pair of Italian boots from the same place (before I was born) and absolutely loved them.
Happy in front of Rive Gauche.
A close up for you, Ali Anderson.

The last highlight of the past few days, and this whole experience, was an evening out with my wonderful language partner, Silvia. After a few failed attempts to hang out over the past few weeks, Silvia invited me to La Cité, a wonderful “liberiacafe,” bookstore/cafe/bar, with a few of her friends on Monday night. After a beautiful nighttime walk, my roommate Sarah and I arrived at La Cité, a little place oozing with live music and hipster Italians. Hanging out with Silvia and her Italian friends, speaking only in Italian, while listening to incredible live Jazz–and, at moments, live Italian hip hop–was one of the most memorable moments I’ve had in Florence. Silvia is hilarious and humble and I really love spending time with her. It’s such a unique way to look at the city and Italian culture. Even though her English must be 100x better than my Italian, she still chooses to speak mostly in Italian. When she does speak English, it’s very endearing, and I can only hope that my attempts at speaking Italian are half as cute as Silvia’s English.
Goodnight, Florence. Sarah, Silvia’s wonderful friend (so sad I’m blanking on the name), Silvia, and me!

I’m starting to feel a bit sick so I’m off to bed, but you can expect a longer post and hopefully some beautiful pictures upon my return from Rome.

Oh yes, and only 2 weeks until Andrew is here! We’ve planned a trip through Tuscany and a trip to Positano (the Amalfi Coast), so we are thoroughly excited for his arrival. Two weeks in, Andrew and Jake (you might remember Jake from the Dirty Rascals crew last year) are holding up great on the Camino. Sadly, Christy, Red, and Matt have been suffering from all kinds of gnarly injuries and have decided to take a break from hiking. If all goes as planned, though, the five will meet up 100km from the end of the Camino and finish the adventure together. I will post a few pictures from Andrew’s journey once he arrives. Until then, I’m counting down the days…

I fall in love with Florence a little more each day and few realistic changes could make this experience, program, and journey more wonderful for me. I’m truly so thankful I was able to take this time in Florence, and I do my best to cherish it fully each and every day.

I miss you all and wish you a peaceful Easter weekend!

is this real life?

My weekend came early this week, and it was definitely the best one since I’ve been in Florence (and perhaps ever).
The view from my second trip to the Boboli Gardens.

After a really tame school week–mostly just going to class, going home, catching up on sleeping, eating with the fam, and heading to bed–Thursday had a lot to offer. I met up with Mercy, a friend who dates all the way back to Andover, at the grocery store around 2 and we selected all the best goods for a picnic–salami, pecorino, fresh focaccia, and lemon soda. We set up our lunch in a beautiful park near the Stanford Center and over the course of two hours, completely finished a chunk of pecorino we had originally thought was far too big for the two of us. The weather has been absolutely amazing so far, in the mid 70s every day, so most of my days have included a few hours of lounging somewhere with plenty of sun. (Though Italians still look at me suspiciously when I wear shorts.) After our picnic, Mercy and I met up with Alex at the Boboli Gardens and lounged for 2 more hours, writing postcards, talking about the trips we hope to take, and discussing Italian style (hit or miss).

After Boboli, Alex and I headed to Teatro del Sale to meet up with a large group who had been anxiously awaiting this night. Andrew, our friends Gus and Jake, who studied with Andrew in Florence, and nearly every other person I’ve known who has visited Florence found it impossible to talk about Florence without mentioning Teatro del Sale. Owned by Fabio Picchi, the chef behind the renowned Florence restaurant Cibreò, Teatro del Sale is one of the most unique experiences you can find in Florence, perhaps anywhere. Teatro del Sale is a private dining and arts club that you can join for a nominal price, after which you are able to come for any meal and show for a not so nominal price. The dining area of Teatro is situated in an old theater with beautiful wooden tables, dim lighting, and an ambience that somehow makes you feel like you’ve gone back in time and are enjoying a night out with Shakespeare and his circle of artsy friends–eating, drinking, being jolly, and enjoying a quaint show following the meal. Chef and owner Fabio Picchi helps this fantasy seem even more real. A tall Italian man with an abundance of white hair, Picchi might just be the most unforgettable part of Teatro. Teatro is served buffet style with a new dish brought out every 10 or 15 minutes, though the actual number of platters is never revealed so you must pace yourself. Each time Picchi finishes a new course, he comes to a large kitchen window and shouts the arrival of his newest dish into the dining area, a bellow so intense I don’t think even Italians can make out what he’s saying. Immediately after Picchi’s war call, the diners at Teatro, classy as they may be, move in a stampede to the buffet. When it’s done, it’s done. After several battles to score myself a taste of almost all the dishes, I can say that this was some of the best food I’ve ever had, complemented of course by the amazing focaccia and the endless house wine. The highlights were two potato dishes, chicken meatballs with pomodori, rigatoni with the best bolognese ragu I’ve ever had, and rosemary chicken. After a quick espresso and a bite-sized brownie, the show began–A night with the Beatles! The performer played some of the most beautiful renditions of Beatles’ songs I’ve ever heard, but most of us agreed that he should’ve stuck solely with the guitar. His singing was borderline painful at times, but I know I felt comforted by the sounds of the Beatles that night, a little piece of home. We left happy and full. I hope to come back with Andrew when he comes!
Teatro chef Fabio Picchi.

This weekend my host father was out of town, selling his wine in Verona, so I think my host mom tried to monopolize on some girl time. On Friday, she took us to a choir concert in one of the most unique churches in Florence, Chiesa del Sacro Cuore. The choir, La Martinella, consisted of about 30 older men singing “traditional Italian mountain songs.” Though it was quite different from the kind of a cappella concerts I’m used to, it was by far one of the most beautiful performances I’ve ever seen, such a pure and blended sound. As far as it was from Michael Jackson or Boyz II Men, I couldn’t help but be reminded of Everyday People and how much I’ve been missing singing with them. At the concert, I met one of my host mother’s best friends from college, Francesca, and her father, Franco. Francesca also hosts Stanford students and is currently the host mother of my friend Gina, who is absolutely in love with Francesca and her other family members. Franco Vannini, Francesca’s father, might just be the coolest, most refreshing Italian that I’ve met in my time here. Franco is in his mid-80s and has been teaching architecture at the University of Florence for the past 20 years, before which he was an architect himself. When he’s not teaching or talking to people, Franco is working on some kind of art project. (Right now he is quite excited about working with watercolor–much less messy than oil.) He is witty, passionate, and warm. Franco and I spoke for about 30 minutes before the concert began, and I realized after going home that night that my conversation with Franco was the very first time that I’ve felt 100% confident carrying on with an Italian. He listens without judgment, helps you when you’re struggling for words, and always has something fascinating to talk about. At the end of the night, my host mother mentioned that we would be spending Sunday at a villa in the country with Francesca and her family. When I asked Franco if he would be joining us, everybody laughed. “è casa mia!” Franco said. I was so excited to hear that Franco would not only be at the gathering on Sunday but hosting it at his summer villa.

Saturday I woke up early to head to a tiny town called Greve in the Chianti region with a group of 9 for some wine tasting and motorino riding (not in that order). When my friend Riley mentioned renting motorinos in Chianti, I was pretty sure I would never partake. I associate motorinos in Florence with near-death accidents or death itself. Also, driving ANYTHING in Florence completely terrifies me. You’ve never seen insanity like the driving system in Italy–essentially, there isn’t one. But Riley assured me that there were infinitely less people in Chianti than in Florence and that we could find roads through the vineyards that would be completely isolated. So I agreed to go, but never said anything about driving. Riley was right, indeed. Greve was gorgeous and quiet, with very few people or cars in sight–such a wonderful change of pace. We rented 4 motorinos at a family-run bike shop called Ramuzzi (highly recommended to rent with them if you ever visit Chianti), and we were on our way. I rode with Riley, who was the only one in our group who’d driven a motorino before, and made him promise to be careful and start off slow. The drive to lunch was absolutely stunning. I’d never seen anything like it. We were pretty much the only people on the road, the weather was perfect, the air was so fresh, and the higher we went, the more we could see of endless green hills and vineyards. It was perfect. We stopped for lunch at a restaurant with the most insane view, and I ordered the papardelle with wild boar, bruschetta, and since Riley was driving, a glass of a local Chianti. Lunchtime conversation, and much of the conversation in the days that followed our trip to Chianti, hovered around the theme of: “this might just be the best day of my life.”

Later in the afternoon, to my great surprise, I decided I wanted to try driving for a bit. I can’t even express how much fun it was to be in the driver’s seat. Alex, Gina, and I, did a final drive right before turning the motorinos in, and it was even more gorgeous than the ride to lunch. The sun was setting over la campagna and we were all in heaven. This is definitely one of the best risks I’ve taken since being in Florence and ended up being one of my favorite memories so far.

It was a campagna filled weekend! Sunday afternoon, my roommate, Sarah, and I piled in the car with the whole family for a day with the Vannini’s at Franco’s villa in the Chianti region. After driving for about an hour–it was insane how quickly Florence was completely out of sight–we arrived at the Vannini Villa, a gorgeous 15th century villa that Franco purchased in the 1950s. Franco’s daughters–Elizabetta and Francesca, my host mother’s best friend–both came and brought their children, including Francesca’s host student, Gina. Franco was thrilled to see us again, and immediately took us on a tour of the villa. The villa boasted everything from a beautiful pool with a 360 degree view to an original kitchen from centuries ago (just one of the kitchens in the villa) to a large painted version of the Vannini family tree that stretches all the way back to the 16th century. Also, one of my favorite parts of the villa, Franco’s art is EVERYWHERE. Every room has at least 10 paintings or drawings, some from last month and some from 20 years ago. When I asked Franco about them, he said he isn’t one of those people who says he likes to paint but only paints once or twice a month. He does a little bit of art everyday, including leading an art class for children in Florence every week. Everything in Franco’s villa somehow related to his passion for life in general–his books of recipes, his boat room with pictures and models of traditional Italian boats, his paintings and sculptures, his wine collection. (If you haven’t figured it out already, I’m a little in love with Franco Vannini.)
The Vannini Villa.
Franco showing us the original bread oven in the Vannini Villa.
The view from one of the bedrooms.

After the tour, we ate very well. Pesto pasta, frittatas, cheese, salumi, bread and wine. Sitting in the sunlight of the patio, hearing nothing but Italian, it hit me how lucky I am. Not just to be in Italy, but to be experiencing Italy like this, like an Italian. This was the first experience that I felt was truly, 100% authentic–no tourists could ever find themselves here, with these people, part of these conversations. This is no ordinary abroad program. I’ve met several American students since being here who hardly speak Italian, let alone communicate with Italians on a regular basis. Every time I meet one of these students, I feel a little sad for them but am also reminded to treasure every single moment of this experience while I’m here. This Sunday also made me feel so appreciative that the people involved with this program really let us into their lives completely–host families, language partners, etc. The main reason Sunday was so unforgettable was because it felt like a gathering that I belonged at, a gathering of my friends and family. At the end of the day, Franco brought out his camera and led us three Stanford girls to the garage. He asked us if we’d be willing to take a picture with him in his vintage car, “like Charlie’s Angels.” We happily obliged–anything for Franco! I was really sad to leave, but Franco gave us his number and said we can consider him a new language partner if we want. We are already planning a trip back to the villa, but I hope Franco and I can meet up for many caffès before then. On the drive home, I was my very happiest happy. There really aren’t words, in Italian or English, for how beautiful and perfect this day was. I will treasure it forever.

Franco’s Angels.
Bertinis.

I haven’t made plans for this weekend yet, but I’m really looking forward to Rome Easter weekend and Paris the weekend after that. Andrew arrives the weekend after Paris, so I have plenty to keep me excited. Andrew is about to embark on his 9th day on the Camino de Santiago and seems to be doing great. Whereas a few days earlier, a few people in the group were really struggling with either joint problems, severe foot pain, or bad blisters, everybody seems to be adjusting now to the 15-20 miles a day. The group seemed happier than ever when I Skyped with them tonight, so I have no worries about them as they make their way across Spain.

To anyone still reading 2000 words later (this is the closest thing I’ve written to an essay since being in Florence), thank you very much and I promise I will be more concise or just write more short entries in the future.

I’m missing everyone lots and hoping I can bring all of you back here someday!
Florence is really starting to feel like my city. (Except when I remember that I speak Italian at the level of a 1 year-old, and that is likely a generous comparison.)

Are you going to space?

This weekend was beautiful, lazy, and fun.

It started at around 1 pm on Saturday morning–a late start indeed, but finally, the headache was gone! Alex and I met for a late lunch in Piazza della Repubblica, where we decided to try the cafe on the roof of Rinascente, a fancy department store in the center of the city. I had never been to this cafe before, and I tend to avoid places with a coperto (a charge, normally around 2 or 3 €, for eating at a sit-down restaurant), but my host mom had suggested it as a good option for a day with good weather and plenty of time to kill. Alex and I trekked to the 6th floor of Rinascente, and then up one more flight of stairs, to find ourselves in one of the most beautiful locations in the center of the city. From the roof of Rinascente you can see an amazing (and close) view of the Duomo, Piazza della Repubblica, and la campagna for days! The weather was perfect, just warm enough, and Alex and I stayed for a few hours–planning weekend trips, discussing purchases we want to (but shouldn’t) make before we leave, praising the restaurant for serving water with lemon slices (a rarity in Florence).

The view from Rinascente.

Street art on the way to Piazza della Signoria. There are always different pictures being recreated with chalk in this area. This is one of my favorites so far. Reminded me of you, Mom!

After lunch, Alex and I decided that we wanted to work on our 10 sketches for Rossi’s “Becoming an Artist in Florence” class, so we headed to Palazzo Vecchio in Piazza della Signoria, where there many famous statues. Alex and I drew for a few hours, quickly learning that statues, immobile as they are, make much better subjects than tourists sitting on the steps near us. I drew four sketches that afternoon, and one of my favorites so far was my sketch of the famous “David.” Admittedly, I worked on it for more than the 3-5 minutes Rossi suggested, but I felt like this was the first time I was really getting the proportions down so I had to run with it.

The Fountain of Neptune, situated beside Palazzo Vecchio, by Bartolomeo Ammannati.
Palazzo Vecchio.
Replica of Michelangelo’s “David.”
This is what artists look like, right?
The final product.

For dinner, eight or so of us met up at Trattoria al Trebbio, near Piazza Santa Maria Novella. I got a delicious ravioli plate, but because of a bus mishap and then getting lost, I had to eat after everyone had finished their meals. Very good, but a bit rushed. After dinner, we hung out in Piazza Santa Maria Novella until 11, when we headed to Space. If anything, I wanted to go to Space, a discoteca catering to American students and aggressive Italian men, simply because I found it so amusing every time someone asked, “When are we going to Space?” or “How do we get to Space?” Simple pleasures. Space, like many other discotecas in Florence, is structured in such a way that allows them to make the majority of their money off stupid American students. You get a ticket when you enter that gives you entrance and a drink for 10 €. You don’t pay, however, until the end of the night. Throughout the night, you can add other drinks to the ticket, which they punch each time you purchase a drink, and at the end of the night, before leaving, you turn in the ticket and pay the total on the ticket. The catch: you can’t get out without a receipt verifying that you’ve paid your ticket and if you lose your ticket, it costs 50 €. Judging by the mess of blacked-out girls I saw in the bathroom alone, I’d guess they had at least 100 or so tickets go missing that night alone. And just like that, 500 €.

If you can get past the hoards of aggressive Italian men and sloppy drunk American girls, Space is actually pretty fun. There are two floors, one with karaoke and a more relaxed atmosphere and another with the club vibe. We spent the first hour or so on the karaoke floor, where we completely owned the karaoke system (there was no one else around). It was utterly delightful to see my new friends’ diva come out as we sang everything from Mariah Carey’s, “Always Be My Baby” (obviously my choice) to “Lady Marmalade” (I was Lil’ Kim) to “Daydream Believer.” After karaoke, around 1, we headed upstairs to dance. (Everything is later here–lunch, dinner, going out, etc.) The DJ was apparently from New Jersey (?), and boy was I glad. He played all the right songs, including (and you’ll love this, Ali) Montell Jordan’s “This Is How We Do It” and Blackstreet’s “No Diggity.” By 3, I barely had enough energy to get a taxi and go home, but my peers were amazing, still lively as ever at 3. They have made a habit of staying up until the buses start running again at 6:30, but I’m certain I could never never do that. Overall, Space was great. I suggest taking a trip to Space sometime.

Taking over the karaoke in Space.

I woke up Sunday morning to a text from Alex reading, “OMG our first concert is tonight.” A lot happened at Space the night before, but I did not remember agreeing to anything that had to do with a performance. When I replied that I was absolutely clueless, Alex called and explained that his host family was having a Karaoke party at their house (I know, twice in one weekend!) and wanted us to perform something for them and their friends. I had no idea what to expect, but I loved the idea of karaoke and seeing how another Italian family lives, so I headed over to the other side of Florence. I walked into Alex’s house, located in the cutest area over by Piazza San Marco, and was greeted by his host parents, much older than my host parents, who were so excited to meet me and have us perform for them. Alex and I headed downstairs and practiced a few songs with Alex’s guitar, and we finally decided to sing an acoustic version of “Born This Way” for them. When we came upstairs, we saw a giant image of youtube projected on the wall, a hefty sound system that appeared to belong in a recording studio, and two microphones, all in the dining room of Alex’s host family. When they had invited me for karaoke, I had no idea it would be so intricate and professional. I was thrilled! The rest of the afternoon was too wonderful to try to summarize fully. We sang for them (they were so delighted), projected a few Everyday People videos for them on the wall, did a few karaoke duets, and listened to many versions of Italian rock and pop songs. Alex’s family was completely wonderful. I hope to head back there very soon. It was so amazing to see the dynamic and lifestyle of another Italian family and they couldn’t have been more welcoming. Definitely up there with my favorite memories so far.

Today I experienced first hand one of Florence’s famous bus strikes. I’m exhausted, so I’ll spare you the details, but let’s just say my day started at 7am and ended at 6pm. I was on my feet for the vast majority of those 11 hours, and must have walked for 5 miles total, definitely a record for me. In other news, today I visited the Dali/Picasso/Miro exhibit at Palazzo Strozzi in place of my art class (my professor stayed home with is brand new baby–Giuseppe!) which was amazing. The exhibit was about the artists’ earlier works so it was refreshing to see many of their less celebrated but equally striking works. Unfortunately for me, we had to complete ten, 10-minute sketches while at the exhibit, which turned out to be a painful task for us. First of all, most of us are awful and have had no technical training at all. So, where sketching should be fun, at this moment, it’s a task most of us are anxious to complete. Second, the assignment was sketch 10 depictions of the human body in these works, but the works of Picasso, and Dali, and Miro don’t exactly lend themselves to amateur artists like us, especially when it comes to depictions of bodies. The sketching was exhausting and a bit of a disaster, but I was really glad to make it to the exhibit.

Andrew left for his most recent adventure yesterday, and thankfully, it will eventually bring him to Florence! He and four friends are embarking on a month-long, 475-mile pilgrimage throughout northern Spain called Camino de Santiago. They will start the trek on April 6 and finish up on May 3, after which Andrew will fly to Florence–to me! Words can’t describe how thrilled I am to see him here and to share our favorite Florence experiences with one another. (He studied in Florence with Stanford in the spring of 2008.) We haven’t decided what exactly we’ll do in the two weeks that he’s visiting, but it will definitely include a trip to the Dolomites, a stunning mountain range in north-eastern Italy. In the meantime, I’ll be sure to update you all on his status.

Andrew’s route throughout northern Spain, Camino de Santiago.

The Dolomites.

I think that’s it for now, but I will update soon!
Love,
Tessa

one week gone

This week has been curious indeed.

It has been my first week of classes and so far I am loving them all–or the ones I was able to make it to. Fiorenza, our Italian teacher, is adorable. For the first two classes, we spent half the class talking about Vasco Rossi, the only Italian rock star who also happens to have a big fan in Fiorenza. Also, to my delight, we will spend part of every class working on a conversation that we’re likely to have as we’re out and about in Florence. On Wednesday, we practiced how to order food and have a conversation with a salesperson in a clothing store. Tip: According to Fiorenza, you should never expect an Italian waiter to ask you how you’re doing. (“Come stai?”) If he/she does, he/she likely has ulterior motives. Rossi’s class–Becoming an Artist in Florence–was wonderful, but I definitely foresee it being the most difficult class for me this quarter. At the first class, he explained the syllabus and expectations in Italian and then we were off to a museum. We were told to spend 30-40 minutes on two sketches of any depiction of the human body in the museum. I forgot to write down which paintings I chose to sketch, but let’s just say they were painful and the proportions were all wrong (and one person I drew had a raptor arm that just couldn’t be helped). For next weeks class, I have to bring in 10 sketches (3-5 minutes each) of the human body. I have three, and they all make me want to draw less. I’m not sure if paintings will be better or even worse…

Even though we spent the three hours in a dark room switching through slides, my first class with Timothy Verdon was amazing because he proved within the first few minutes that he literally knows everything about European, specifically Renaissance, art. I had gotten five hours of sleep the night before and the room was dark, my feet were killing me, the rows of chairs were uncomfortably close together, yet I still felt like a kid on Christmas morning listening to Verdon speak (especially after I snuck out and bought an espresso in the lounge of the center). I’ve never been crazy about Renaissance art, but Verdon explains art history like a story, cause and effect. Every “why?” I can think of, Verdon answers just a few seconds or minutes later. We have two more classes in a classroom, which I’m not crazy about, but the others are out in Florence so I think those outings will make up for the three-hour slide reels.

A wonderful little performance in Piazza Della Repubblica. I think they helped everyone slow down just a little bit.

Even beautiful on a rainy night.

I also had what I believe to be the best Gelato so far this Thursday with my language partner. Vestri is small and hidden and doesn’t exactly flaunt the fact that they sell gelato. Instead, they are known for their amazing chocolates. Vestri has the most delicious, simple flavors I’ve had so far. The first time I went, I got Fior Di Latte, a really simple flavor that is essentially milk-flavored, and Chocolate Orange. This blend was heavenly. The second time, which happened to be about 3 minutes after I finished my first cone (I’ve never done that before!), I got Fior Di Latte again and Chocolate Piccante. Also wonderful, but I suggest the Chocolate Orange for first timers.

Also on Thursday, my host mom made just about the best meal I’ve had so far. It is called “Polpettone,” big meatball, and is essentially the Italian version of meatloaf but infinitely better. She served it with a homemade ragu on top and I so wished after the first few bites that I hadn’t chosen that day to have two rounds of gelato just a few hours earlier. I tried to say in as many ways as I knew how that I loved the dish so my mom would make it again, and next time she said I can help her prepare it. Also, I promised her I would make the family some Mexican cuisine before I leave. Mom, can you send the Albondigas soup recipe along?

Another favorite food in Florence: Pizza from Il Pizzaiuolo.

[Before this next bit, I PROMISE I’M FINE NOW.] The morning after the famous polpettone, I woke up feeling terrible. (And no, I didn’t go out the night before). I woke up at 8:30 with an insane headache, feeling extremely nauseous, and unable to feel my feet or hands. I tried to fall back asleep, hoping it’d go away–maybe I was just sleep deprived–but the pain was too strong. I got out of bed and came online, hoping Andrew might have some advice for me. When I began typing to Andrew, I was completely disoriented. I couldn’t put a sentence together no matter how hard I focused. Finally, I called Fosca, one of the women at the center, and tried to explain everything I was feeling. I was a bit hysterical, mostly because I hadn’t experienced anything like this before. Fosca seemed to be most concerned about how disoriented I was and insisted that the doctor that works with the center come visit me at my house. At one point, after hanging up with Fosca, I wrote the following sentence in my chat to Andrew: “when i tried to wrote fosca i kept writing the same weird saying i’ll call her if i need to go to the disco or my heard one stop hurting.” So yeah, pretty out of it. I fell asleep until the doctor came, and when he arrived, I was a little more coherent. He decided that I likely have a virus and wrote me a prescription. What ensued was one of the worst experiences of my life–walking down the street in the hot sun, a pounding headache, missing my bus, choosing to walk, certain I’m going to be sick the entire way to the pharmacy. Finally, after waiting in two lines, missing the return bus, sitting on the bus certain I’m going to have to pull the emergency stop, I made it home with my medicine. I slept until 5pm and when I woke up I felt much better, though the headache was stronger than ever. I’m still not sure what the whole episode was (not convinced it was a virus) but I’m glad the creepy parts of it are gone. A headache and upset stomach I can deal with. Not feeling my limbs and being unsure of where I am and what day it is, now that concerns me a bit. Having all this happen so far from home was pretty awful, but every traveler must have a collection of these less glamorous stories.

Today I woke up with the same relentless headache, but I couldn’t sleep until the sun went down again. After taking some tylenol and putting on some lighter clothes for the warm weather, I decided to go out to meet a few friends for lunch and then return home. (By the way, people aren’t kidding when they say that Italians dress according exactly to the day and month denoted on the calendar. Doesn’t matter if it’s 75 degrees, as it was today. Italians will continue to wrap themselves up in puffy jackets, scarfs, tights, peacoats, whatever. I wore a black shirt, black sweater, and white shorts today on the bus and I was looked at as though I had murdered someone. This “underdressing” on warm days always gives me/us away as Americans. I’m told once May comes, they might shed a layer or two.) We met at the Boboli Gardens, these amazing gardens in the Pitti Palace, very close to the Stanford Center. A few hours in the sun was just what I needed. When I returned home, I was ready for a relaxing night in. (The headache is still here).

Boboli Gardens.
Soaking it all in.

Anyway, I’m hoping I am completley better by tomorrow so I can go out and explore. Otherwise… well, I don’t want to think about an otherwise.

Love,
Tessa

vai! vai!

It’s the Sunday before I start classes and I finally think I’ve adjusted to the time difference (evidenced by sleeping until 2pm today.)

My family has been out of town all weekend and I really miss them. They went to a spot they regularly visit in la campagna (the countryside) and have been gone since Saturday morning. So, for the time that I’ve been home, it’s been me and la nonna (grandma), Dina, chatting it up, understanding about 30% of what the other is saying. Despite the language barrier, there’s no doubt she’s one of the sweetest nonnas I’ve ever met and she looks wonderful for being in her 90s! She doesn’t always live with my family, but she recently had a stroke and will be staying here until she’s fully recovered. She told me she’s feeling better every day but still feels really weak. When I returned home yesterday, I was starving but it hasn’t been established yet whether or not we can take things from the fridge when no one’s home/without permission. I asked Dina, “Ho fame. Va bene se mangio una merenda?” She promptly guided me to the kitchen where she asked me what I wanted. “Salumi? Formaggi?” I decided on brie and Dina cut me some bread to have with it. I expected Dina to head back to the living room after getting me situated with a snack, but instead she sat across from me. I had forgotten that it’s very un-Italian to eat alone. Dina and I talked for about 20 minutes, just the two of us, about our favorite cheeses, Italian meals, i dolci, and la campagna. After I finished eating, she finally let me help her do the dishes and I learned the name for hand towel (asciugamano). This snack was memorable partially because it was my first time hanging out with Dina just us and partly because it was my first test in having a long conversation–not asking for directions or ordering a panino–with an Italian who speaks absolutely no English. I cherish this moment mostly because it was one of the first times I realized how much can be understood and felt between two people with so little in common (though we both share a deep love for pecorino cheese).

My family. They get better every day.

Il gato Aurora. Never been a cat person, but I like when she snuggles with me in the afternoon. That may be the only time I really like her.

The kitchen bulletin board. Le mie sorelle are the best. Not sure if they’ve warmed up to us yet, but we’re taking baby steps everyday.

The past couple days we’ve been in and out of orientation, which has actually been really wonderful and helpful. The Stanford center staff guided us through everything from academics, Italian culture, communicating with our families, being safe and aware in Italy (I know you’re glad for that, Dad), how to make our money stretch, and probably most helpful, how to live like a Florentine rather than be an extended tourist. We also got to meet our language partners, which was super exciting! We talked to Silvia, my language partner, and Chiara, my roommate’s language partner, for about an hour, switching in and out of English and Italian. They are wonderful and completely nonjudgmental (I hope) in regard to my narrow vocabulary and my frequent asking of “Come si dice…” Silvia, 25, has played violin forever and has finally finished at the music conservatory in Florence. She loves dancing, running, free climbing (awesome, no?), and soccer (she lives by the stadium). We already have a date to go running this week and hopefully very soon we will go to a discoteca together. She’s pretty shy about speaking English, but I figure it’s more practice for me until she feels more comfortable practicing her English. After we met our language partners, we went on a 2 hour walking tour around Florence with a wonderful guide, who taught us a lot about the history and culture of Florence. It was my first time seeing a lot of the main Florence attractions, and they were all more beautiful than I ever imagined.

One sight on my walk to school: Piazza della Repubblica. The only time walking to school has ever been cool.

Piazza Santa Croce.

Piazza del Duomo in all its glory. Learn how the dome was made here. It’s pretty cool. (You get that, RZ and AA?)

Just tucked back in there. It’s not a big deal or anything.

Just so happened that during our walking tour we ran into a parade celebrating Gioco di Calcio, the tradition of Florentine soccer. During the summer, four teams from Florence’s four historic quarters play a violent version of soccer in Renaissance costumes in the dirt-packed Piazza di Santa Croce and Piazza della Signoria. Sadly, I’ll miss the games, but my excitement was totally fulfilled by the parade.

Piazza della Signoria.

Another view on the walk to school.

Also, yesterday, I tried my first Pino panino and it was AMAZING. Pino owns a panino shop called Salumeria Verdi and has always been a famous figure to Stanford students. He’s really animated, makes wonderful Panino’s, and best of all, he loves Stanford kids. I got a caprese panino with pesto, and it was so so good. The focaccia was the first good bread I’ve had in Italy and the tomatoes were amazing, not to mention the fresh mozzarella. I can’t wait to try more!

Last night was my first night out in Florence (Saturday nights we’re on our own for dinner) and it was totally wonderful. For dinner Julie, a 2nd-quarter Florence student, planned a dinner for 8 of us at Trattoria ZàZà, which had a great mix of Italians and foreigners. I ordered the gnocchetti with a rosè wine sauce which was wonderful, but the winning dish was definitely Alex’s pizza which had mozzarella, greens, ham, and the best mushrooms I’ve ever had in my life. After that, Julie and Stephanie, another returning student, took us newbies to some random little bar where we were told we had to take this famous shot called “Eby’s Shot.” I guess Eby is the name of the bartender, who looks eerily like Einstein. The shot was interesting. Julie marched up to the bar and told him we wanted 6 shots, after which he piled blood oranges, coffee grinds, sugar, and bananas dipped in poppy seeds on a plate in the shape of a smiley face. He told us in Italian to dip one side of the orange in the coffee grinds and the other in sugar. Then he screamed, “MANGIA MANGIA!” so loud I jumped. And as we ate the weird coffe/sugar orange, he poured us shots of Kahlua, vodka, and coke (and probably other liquids, too).Then he slammed them on the bar and practically threw them at us, screaming, “VAI VAI VAI!” (Go! Go! Go!) We took the shot, which was way to sweet for my taste, and then Einstein screamed, “È LA BANANAAAAA!!!” (And the banana!”) and we finished the experience with the poppyseed-dipped slices of banana. It was absolutely hilarious and weird. Part of the reason the shot was so difficult is because all of us were laughing the entire time. I was tired so the night ended right after Eby’s shot for me, but I will never forgot this incredibly odd experience.

Dinner at Trattoria ZàZà.

EBY’S SHOTS!!! (But seriously, how much does he look like Einstein?)

Tomorrow I start my classes and we have our first Bing dinner, a formal dinner for the whole group provided by generous Stanford alumni, Peter and Helen Bing (who also make the whole abroad program happen at Stanford!) I will be taking an art history class which will be taught throughout the cities of Florence and Rome with Timothy Verdon, an art studio class with Fillipo Rossi, a film class about women and femininity in Italian film with the Stanford center director Ermalinda Campani, and accelerated second year Italian with another center teacher Fiorenza Quercioli.

My family just got home, so I’m going to go chat (as much as I can) with them.

Talk to you soon!
Love,
Tessa

La Mia Famiglia

My tiredness hasn’t quite faded yet so please forgive my brevity, but I am FINALLY moved into my new home with my new family, and to be sure, this is the coolest thing I’ve ever gotten myself into. I keep reading the Facebook statuses of my Italian peers and they read something like, “Is this real?” or “This is about to be epic.” Those remarks don’t even begin to cover how amazing this experience already is/will be.

La mia famiglia is everything I could ask for and more. Mia mama, Alessandra, works as a broker in the fashion industry and mio babo, Alessandro (easy, no?), works at/with an organic farm, Fattoria San Michele a Torri, producing and selling wine and cheese. The cherry on top of this beautiful and balanced couple–two little sorelle! Giulia, 7, and Martina, 10, are both outgoing, fearless, hilarious, and extremely helpful and kind. Giulia speaks a million miles a minute–I’m sure I will be asking her many times, “Più lentamente, per favore, Giulia”–and Martina tries to be very mature but definitely has her silly side. They both love Justin Bieber and while they love the songs of Lady Gaga, they are not huge fans of Gaga herself–too strange, says Martina. (I’ll try to explain, Jason). They are absolutely adorable and I’m so lucky Stanford was able to match me with one of the few families with younger children.

Dinner was, of course, incredible. Pesto pasta, diversi salumi, and caprese ensalata! Alessandra said this dinner was simply a “presto” (quick) meal. If this is presto, I really don’t think i’m ready for the non-presto meals. Also, she apologized for not having made fresh pesto…

After dinner, Alessandro/a took us out to show us the bus/walking route we will be taking to and from the Stanford Center. We’re one of the furthermost home stays from the center, and the total commute is somewhere around 30 minutes, but it’s definitely the most beautiful and easy commute anyone could ask for. They showed us the exact route we’ll be walking every day, coached us on how to order espresso (NEVER SIT DOWN!), and showed which gelaterias weren’t worth the 4 or 5 euro (basically all of them). Their guidance was incredibly helpful and so appreciated at the late-ish hour. I can’t imagine trying to figure everything out without the help of our family and the Stanford center. We are truly lucky to be in Florence through Stanford and with the families that the Stanford Center staff has spent hours matching us with.

My roommate, Sarah (from Riverside, coincidentally), is headed to sleep so I’m going to sign off, but I should have a new post (with pictures, hopefully) soon!

Also, for those who’ve asked me how to subscribe to the blog, there should be a box you can check if you click on the comments link at the bottom of any post. It should say: NOTIFY ME OF SITE UPDATES. You might have to leave a comment in order to do this, but that’s not the worst thing, is it?

Love,
Tessa